Bearing roll under load

Cheaper vs high end bearing actual drag under load, anyone have a way to test?

Comments

  • I have feel as my test case. This is why I no longer buy Bones Swiss bearings for my inline speed skates. I have found that cheaper double-shielded NMB bearings roll just as well under load at 1/4 the price.

    Indoor Inline: Pinnacle Full Customs | Junk Fury 4x110 | TLTF/Simmons Wheels | NMB

    Outdoor Inline: Simmons Full Customs | Junk Fury 4x110 | Junk Wheels | NMB

    Quads: Reidell 911 | Roll-Line Giotto | Corey Super-Ds/JG Hubs/B-Skater 71mm Outdoor | Bones Swiss/NMB

  • It depends at what speed and cornering load.

    I have many cheap and high end (precise tolerances) bearings.

    At high speed my cheap bearings induced more friction and heat (so more wear).

    Because there is a lot of play and it is making clicking noises when stride ( I hate that).

    Also I can feel there is a lot of play when wiggle wheels to left and right (sideways).

    From The Netherlands

  • How did you measure bearing heat?

  • edited March 2020

    Removed wheel just touch it. I have a heat measuring gun, but too lazy to measure. More accurate: when disassembled bearings you can see dark traces of bearings ( roll cage, cup ) wear. This indicates heat, play and lubrication problems.

    From The Netherlands

  • I ran lots of bearing tests years ago on quads. As is bearings, no extra lubricants or changes. All bearing ran very close in temperature(tested in same wheels. A bearing that goes dry from too thin or low quality lubricants can create heat, the bearing is usually toast by then.

    I run cheap take outs from skates bought from thrift stores. Buy used inlines and strip the bearings from them. Usually $1.50 to $2 a pair. The lube that is in them is fine for the duration of their life. I don't clean or lube bearings. My bearings usually last for many years. I've only tossed app half a dozen bearings in 9 years.

  • edited March 2020

    Yeah I think it is just in which environment and load (speed, vibrations) you use them. I use them outside at variety surface at high speed and many vibrations. For me ILQ 9 classic with grease last longest. Grease transfer better heat, lubrication is for ball bearings is not the main goal. Heat transfer is more important. Ofcourse lubrication is important too, but for balls bearings less important.

    From The Netherlands

  • One thing that is overlooked in many cases is that the grease acts as the transfer material for heat. Like heat sink cream in electronics.

  • However, I've not seen any heat to speak of in skate bearings. I've seen plenty of skate bearings in electric motors.... they never have maintenance. The motors fail before the bearings do.

  • Well electric doesnt has same load, environment, vibrations as skate bearing. Skate bearings has ovetcome our body weight and other loads....suddenly cornering, jumping etc...

    From The Netherlands

  • Yup grease acts like a thin layer (film), to reduce vibrations. But this is more in cases when bearings ate continue being sprayed ( lubricate) by oil.

    From The Netherlands

  • in the days of roller bearing wheels(loose ball), 3 in one was used. But cone wear was always an issue as all lubricant was slung out of the bearing assembly. Precision bearing pre-greased, last a long long time. Eventually oil gets slung out(high maintenance), grease keeps doing it's job for years(low or no maintenence.

  • edited March 2020

    Yup that is why I prefer grease. I have been used oil but oil change ratio was too high and a lot of dirt attraction.

    From The Netherlands

  • Outdoors is so different, much dirtier conditions. If I did a lot more outdoor skating I would be going through bearings much faster. I skate on fairly clean pavilions here sometimes. If I were road skating bearing life would be way less. Still would not tear down bearings, don't have that kind of time to blow on that, just chunk em...

  • Yup I am skating freeride and speed at same time. So through grass ( sometimes) and mostly not smooth surface. So that is why I just buy intermediate bearings ( prefer ilq 9 classic) Have bone swiss, too expensive for my purpose.

    From The Netherlands

  • I just use a hill that is nearby, with a gate at the top. I back up to the gate, let go, and mark how far I roll, and take the middle mark of three passes.

    "I just love to skate. I found that the more time I put into it, the more enjoyment I got out of it." --Slomo

  • I bought another pair of nice very low mileage inlines at the thrift store. Barely wore the mold sheen off the wheels. Nice smooth spinning bearings in them. More bearings for my supply box. $2.50 for the skated iirc. Junk the skates, keep the bearings.

  • It's often surprising what kind of nice wheels or bearings you can get with a cheap trashy used skate. Thrift stores in my area have been cleaned out lately with the CV19 roller skating craze. I haven't found as many steals like that this year.

  • I got a pair of like $300 aggressive inlines at goodwill for $10 or so.

    I never use them anymore but it's amazing what people will give away in terms of skates lol

  • A few years ago I bought 30+ pairs of skates for $2.50/pair. Got about 90% good bearings out of them. Some of the bearings were the junk bearings with extended inner races and tapered outer races. I don't use them, but I bought all the skates, so no biggy. Basically I bought the entire crate of assorted skates. Most of the skates in like new condition, some had almost zero skate time on them. In the last 10 years of skating I was given a new set of bearings(wife), put them in a set of wheels. Of my regular cheap skate bearings, only had to replace IIRC app 6 bearings in 10 years. Greased bearings work well when the grease is ran in for a few sessions, the bearings smooth out and roll very easily(for people that like to free spin bearings). Ceramics are great for water wet skating, outdoors, road, long distances in the rain. They don't rust lol.

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  • So you work all day with roller skates on?

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